Atlantis Support · Installation guide
Atlantis Mini Retrofit Kit: No-AUTO kit
For TEC boxes with NO Auto switch (TEC II L/S)
The approved four-page install guide, as printed. Select a page to open the full-quality PDF, then zoom in on any photo or label.
PDF · 4 pages · 4.4 MB · ACS-IG-MINI-TEC-NOAUTO · Rev C · Oct 2026
First: get the Atlantis Boater app
STEP 0 · Lock out. Prove it dead.
Breaker OFF and locked (dock-light breaker too). Check tester live before and after, then test LINE to Neutral, LINE 1 to LINE 2, each to Ground: all 0 V. The key switch does NOT turn off line power. 120/240 V can kill. Qualified installers only.
- BLUE = UP
- RED = DOWN
- BLACK = COMMON
The install guide: No-AUTO kit
Not sure which kit? No-AUTO kit: TEC box with NO Auto switch (TEC II L/S). AUTO kit: TEC box WITH an AUTO CONTROL switch.
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Open PDF at page 4, full quality (opens in a new tab)Text version
Step by step
The same steps as the printed No-AUTO kit guide, written out for small screens and screen readers.
Know your TEC box
- Contactors: LEFT = DOWN, RIGHT = UP
- Transformer
- Small screw strip (under the transformer)
- UP/DOWN switch
- Green light
- LINE (power in)
- Limit Switch block (white loops)
- Ground Bar
- Neutral Bar
- White jumper (120 V only)
- TEC board spot (Atlantis board goes here)
Photo shows the Atlantis board already in place (11).
Know your Atlantis board
- 10-pin socket
- 5-pin switch socket
- service buttons
- yellow jumper: do not touch
- UPDATE / RST: do not press
- LIMIT + APS plugs
- receiver: 7 pins
Every socket is labeled on the board. When in doubt, read the board.
In the box
- Atlantis Mini board, pre-wired
- Switch harness: RED BLACK BLUE
- Spade wires: RED + BLUE
- KEY wire: BLACK
- Remote receiver (small blue board)
- Optional, sold separately: long range remote (white)
- 2 waterproof remotes (black), mounting tape, red + blue stickers
You need
- Flush cutters (wire snips)
- Needle-nose pliers
- Small flat + Phillips screwdrivers
- Voltage tester
- Electrical tape
First: install the Atlantis Boater app (scan a code at the top) and sign in.
Every wire at a glance Check every wire against this list.
| Wire | From | Goes to |
|---|---|---|
| Kit RED spade wire | 10-pin DOWN | DOWN white (step 2) |
| Kit BLUE spade wire | 10-pin UP | UP white (step 1) |
| Kit RED / BLACK / BLUE switch wires | 5-pin plug | UP/DOWN switch: by green light / middle / by transformer |
| Old plug YELLOW ×2 | old TEC plug | 10-pin AUX1 + A1_C (dock light) |
| Old plug WHITE (taped) | old TEC plug, 24AC/GND end | 10-pin +24AC (end pin) |
| Old plug RED (taped) | old TEC plug, 24AC/GND end | 10-pin -24AC next to +24AC |
| Kit BLACK KEY wire | 10-pin KEY | middle screw, TEC Limit Switch block |
| Lift limit switch BLACK / RED / BLUE | TEC Limit Switch block | LIMIT plug +24 / DOWN / UP (GND empty) |
| Sensor RED / BLACK / GREEN / WHITE / bare | Atlantis Position Sensor | APS plug VCC / GND / A / B / SHIELD |
Step 1: UP white → kit BLUE
On the back of the UP/DOWN switch, pull off the WHITE + BLACK pair. Unplug the black (junk). Snip the extra metal tab off the white. Right away, push the white onto the spade on the kit's BLUE wire.
On the photo: UP: white + black · middle: junk · green light
Step 2: DOWN white → kit RED
Now the WHITE + ORANGE pair: unplug the orange (junk), snip the white's extra tab, push it onto the spade on the kit's RED wire. Unplug the 2 middle whites (junk, tape the ends).
Match the WIRE color (both spades are red). Tug: it must hold. Tip: blue sticker on the UP white, red on DOWN, for future service.
On the photo: white on spade tab · kit RED/BLUE wires
Step 3: Take out the TEC board
On the green plug, find the WHITE and RED at the 24AC/GND end. Tape them together to find them later. Pull the plug off. Take off the cream cover. Unscrew the TEC board. The cream base stays.
On the photo: old plug: tape WHITE + RED · TEC board: remove · cream cover
Step 4: Mount the Atlantis board
Put it where the TEC board was. Use the TEC screws or the mounting tape. Or: unscrew the cream base, fix the board on it at a table, put it back.
On the photo: Atlantis board
Step 5: Move 4 wires to the Atlantis 10-pin plug
Press the orange tab on the old TEC plug to free a wire. Both YELLOW → AUX1 + A1_C (dock light). Taped WHITE → +24AC (end pin next to the 5-pin socket). Taped RED → the -24AC next to it. Loosen its screw, push in, tighten, tug. Everything left on the old plug is junk: unscrew its long white at the small strip under the transformer (leave the other wire, tighten), then throw the plug away.
Never use the middle -24AC. It skips the key switch.
| Pin | Wire | From |
|---|---|---|
| AUX2 | empty | Leave empty |
| A2_C | empty | Leave empty |
| AUX1 | YELLOW | From the old TEC plug |
| A1_C | YELLOW | From the old TEC plug |
| -24AC | empty | Never use: it skips the key switch |
| DOWN | RED | Atlantis kit wire |
| UP | BLUE | Atlantis kit wire |
| KEY | BLACK | Atlantis kit wire |
| -24AC | RED | From the old TEC plug (taped) |
| +24AC | WHITE | From the old TEC plug (taped) |
On the photo: OLD plug · NEW 10-pin plug
Step 6: Wire the UP/DOWN switch
Push the 5-pin plug into the 5-pin switch socket (page 1 board map). On the switch: BLACK on the middle tab, RED on the tab by the green light, BLUE on the tab by the transformer.
Only the 3 new Atlantis wires go on this switch.
On the photo: RED · BLACK · BLUE · green light · transformer
Step 7: KEY wire to the MIDDLE screw
Take the kit's single BLACK KEY wire (from the 10-pin KEY pin). Put it under the MIDDLE screw of the TEC Limit Switch block, with the black wire already there. Leave the white loops on.
On the photo: middle screw · loops stay
Step 8: Stops: limit switches (A) or position sensor (B)
Use ONE. No limit switches and no sensor? Skip this step. Limit switches → A. Atlantis Position Sensor → B.
A · Limit switches: LIMIT plug (on the board)
| Pin | Wire | From |
|---|---|---|
| GND | empty | Leave empty |
| +24 | BLACK | Lift's limit switch wire |
| DOWN | RED | Lift's limit switch wire |
| UP | BLUE | Lift's limit switch wire |
- Move the 3 wires from the lift's limit switches (on the TEC Limit Switch block) onto this plug.
- White loops back on; KEY stays put. Black on +24 — never GND.
On the photo: BLUE → UP · RED → DOWN · BLACK → +24 · GND: empty · LIMIT plug · white loop ON
B · Atlantis Position Sensor: APS plug (on the board)
| Pin | Wire | From |
|---|---|---|
| VCC | RED | Atlantis Position Sensor cable |
| GND | BLACK | Atlantis Position Sensor cable |
| A | GREEN | Atlantis Position Sensor cable |
| B | WHITE | Atlantis Position Sensor cable |
| SHIELD | bare shield | Atlantis Position Sensor cable |
- Mount the sensor on MOTOR 1 (the motor wired to the TEC Motor 1 block). On the other motor you get stall warnings when leveling.
- Go by the board labels, not any plug sticker. Power OFF to plug or unplug.
On the photo: bare → SHIELD · RED → VCC · APS plug · labels
Step 9: Power: 120 V or 240 V?
How to tell: an incoming RED wire on LINE 2 = 240 V. No red wire, white jumper on LINE 2 = 120 V. The Atlantis wiring is the same for both.
120 V
- Incoming BLACK → LINE 1
- WHITE (or cream) → Neutral Bar
- GREEN → Ground Bar
- KEEP the white jumper (Neutral Bar → LINE 2)
On the photo: LINE · white jumper: KEEP · Neutral Bar
240 V
- REMOVE the white jumper FIRST
- BLACK → LINE 1 · RED → LINE 2
- WHITE (or cream) → Neutral Bar
- GREEN → Ground Bar
- Motors wired for 240 V (TEC's motor chart, not the nameplate)
On the photo: LINE 1: black · LINE 2: red · neutral (cream) · ground
Set the board later: hold SET 2 s → press 120/240 until solid CYAN (120) or solid ORANGE (240) → press C → tap SET. Do this FIRST in setup (step 13).
Only 2 hot wires + ground (no neutral)? Outside North America, or 220–230 V? STOP: convert the TEC box first (orange box), or call us.
TEC's 240 V 3-wire conversion (no neutral) — do this BEFORE power on
TEC box from 2016 or newer (5-screw strip under the transformer)
- Remove the white wire from the Neutral Bar to the small strip. From that same strip screw, run a new wire (about 28 cm / 11 in) to L1 of the RIGHT-hand (UP) contactor, on a 1/4 in push-on with the red wire.
- Remove the Neutral Bar and every wire on it.
- Unplug the transformer's 2 white wires from the strip. Join them together under one wire nut.
TEC box before 2016 (4-screw strip)
- Move the white wire from the Neutral Bar (to the on/off switch) onto L1 of the RIGHT-hand (UP) contactor, with the red wire.
- Remove the Neutral Bar and its wires.
- On the transformer: remove jumpers 1–5 and 2–6. Add one jumper 2–5.
Then: hot wires → LINE 1 and LINE 2, ground → Ground Bar, board set to 240 (orange). 120 V dock lights cannot be used. Steps from TEC Remotes' 240 Volt 3-Wire Conversion sheet (tecremotes.com).
Step 10: Receiver on. Plugs in.
Push the receiver onto the 7-pin row left of the relays: label and pin names facing YOU, GND pin on the left. The pairing button is on the back. Lay the antenna flat. Push the 10-pin plug all the way on.
On the photo: Front: label faces you · FBD-RX01AA label · GND pin: left end · Back: pairing button · pairing button
Step 11: Check before power ON
- Only the 3 kit wires on the UP/DOWN switch.
- Kit BLUE spade on the UP white, kit RED on the DOWN white.
- 10-pin: 2 yellow, taped white + red, kit wires. Middle -24AC empty.
- KEY on the middle limit screw. White loops on.
- No bare copper. Every screw tight. Tug every wire.
- 120 V: white jumper ON. 240 V: jumper OFF (step 9).
Step 12: Power on. Direction test (the remote is the truth)
- Breaker ON, key ON: 2 green lights, a tune. The light marked LS turns solid BLUE.
- Lift EMPTY, people clear, hands out of the box. Tap remote UP for 1 second: the RIGHT contactor (UP) clicks in, lift goes UP.
- LEFT contactor clicked in? The 2 whites on the kit spades are swapped. Power OFF and locked, swap them, test again.
- RIGHT clicked in, but the lift went DOWN? The motor is backwards. Reverse the motor (next box).
- Tap remote DOWN: the LEFT contactor clicks in, lift goes DOWN.
- Fix one thing at a time. After each fix, start again at item 2.
Then the box UP/DOWN switch
It must do exactly what the remote does. Backwards? Power OFF and locked. Swap only RED and BLUE on the switch. BLACK stays in the middle.
Backwards motor (RIGHT clicks, lift goes DOWN)? Never swap the whites, kit spades or 10-pin UP/DOWN wires: it hides the problem. Reverse the motor.
Reverse a backwards motor
Only when the RIGHT (UP) contactor clicks in but the lift goes DOWN. Power OFF and locked first.
- In the TEC box, find that motor's terminal block (Motor 1 or Motor 2).
- Swap its BLACK and ORANGE wires.
- Tighten. Power on. Do the direction test again.
Works at 120 V and 240 V. (Or at the motor: swap the 2 leads marked * on TEC's motor chart.)
Two motors: check each one. Reverse only the motor that runs the wrong way. One backwards motor will twist the lift.
Never swap the incoming power (LINE) wires — that does not reverse the motor. Never use factory reset to clear a direction lock.
On the photo: swap: BLACK · swap: ORANGE · Motor 1 block
Step 13: Set up
- FIRST set 120/240 on the board (see the buttons box).
- In the Atlantis Boater app, beside the lift: Install a customer lift (owners: Add a Lift) → Service Lift → Setup Wizard. Motor Count: 1 (one group, even with 2 motors). Auto Switch Installed: OFF. Key Switch Detection: ON.
- Limit Type: Limit Switches (A) or APS (B) or None. APS: zero with the lift all the way UP, then the UP stop, then the DOWN stop.
- Operation Timeout → Manual: time one full run with the switch (let go if a limit misses), enter that + 2 s.
Pick Limit Switches only AFTER they are wired. If not, the lift locks (fast cyan/red light).
No phone? Use the buttons on the board
- Hold SET 2 s (the button labels light up).
- Press 120/240 until solid cyan (120) or orange (240). Press C.
- Press LIMIT until slow cyan (switches) or magenta (APS) or red (none). Press C.
- APS only: lift all the way UP → press 0 → C. At the upper stop → UP → C. At the lower stop → DWN → C.
- Auto OFF: hold UP + DWN + KEY 2 s. Red double blink → C. Green → let go, hold again until red → C.
- Tap SET to finish. Timeout: app only, or call us.
On the photo: SET · C · LIMIT · 0 · UP · DWN · KEY · 120/240 · do not touch
Step 14: Final test
- Limit switches: run UP, ready to let go. BLUE (UP) limit stops it at the top, RED at the bottom. APS: it stops at the stops you set.
- Key OFF: nothing moves.
- Remote AUX: dock light on and off.
- Box lid closed and latched.
If something is wrong
- No lights at all: breaker on? Then breaker OFF: 10-pin pushed in? Check the small fuse on the red wire by the transformer. Blown? Replace with the same rating (TEC: 1.5 A).
- Yellow light with key ON: the KEY wire is not on the middle limit screw.
- Stops after about 1 second with a siren: a limit or the motor is backwards. Do step 12 again.
- Stops halfway every time: timeout too short (step 13, item 4).
- Remote does nothing: press the receiver's button once, then any remote button except AUX. 3 flashes = paired.
Lights and sounds: what every light and sound on the board means. Lights and sounds
Stuck? We'll walk you through it.
(561) 486-4607 · Mon–Fri 9–5 ET · help@atlantiscontrolsystems.com
Related guides
ACS-IG-MINI-TEC-NOAUTO · Rev C · Oct 2026 · Follow local codes. TEC is a trademark of its owner; Atlantis is not affiliated with TEC Remotes. © 2026 Atlantis Control Systems, LLC
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